Sunday, 24 March 2013

IBD Soak Off Gel Nails - The Right Way

Okay so after about a week of first putting on my IBD soak off gels I had a few incidents (listed in my other posts) about tips coming off and nails cracking etc. etc.

After doing much research and having to re-glue my tips and then having the gel crack and lift I realized I was putting it on waaayyyy too thin.

Gel nails are absolutely not supposed to be thin. They don't need to be anywhere near as thick as Acrylics usually are but they do need some thickness.

I hated how thick Acrylics were, I found it hard to use my fingers the way I needed to with super thick nails. 

I found a perfect thickness for the gels and they turned out absolutely beautiful.

This is Day 2 of these thicker nails: 



As you can see they are not super thick but thick enough that they have some stability.

If you make them too thin, they will crack.  

Here's the steps I took to get these nails:

1. Make sure your nails are clean and free of any oils.

2. After finding the right size of tips for each finger buff out your natural nail with a buffer block. This removes any shine or oil.

3. Clean off nail with nail cleanser or rubbing alcohol and using good nail glue (I use Bliss Pro from Sally's) apply the nail tips, cut, and file.

4. After filing clean the nail one more time to remove any dust or debris. Then use a dehydrate on your nail, let dry for 3 or 4 secs, and apply bonder/primer (thin coat). And cure under an LED for 30 seconds.

5. Apply the first thin coat of gel (IBD clear gel is what I was using although I would like to start using the builder gel for a thicker consistency). Start at the top middle of your nail because the gel will run. So stay a little ways away from the edges to avoid gel getting on the skin and wait to see how far it runs before extending to the side. Keep this gel coat thin. Cure for 30 secs.

6. Apply a second, thick coat of gel. Again start at the top middle of your nail. Do not pad the gel. You are litterally just 'floating' the gel on the nail. It's not like Acrylics where you pad it flat. You are just guiding the gel onto your nail and it will run a little and level out. Anytime you add more gel add it to the middle of your nail and go from there. Do not let any part of the gel be too thin...especially on the sides - that will cause lifting. Once you have a nice thick coat on your nail place you hands upside down which will allow the gel to float to the middle and give you nail a nice rounded shape. Do this until you are happy with the shape and cure for 30 seconds - If you do not plan to add anymore gel then cure for 1-2 mins.

7. Check your nails and add gel to the spots that might not be quite leveled out. However many coats you put on just remember to cure for 1-2 mins on the last coat.

8. Do Not Wipe Your Nails Clean. I use Sensationail Transparent Gel Top & Basecoat because I've had problems with the IBD Intense Seal cracking but it might have been because the gel was way too thin. But the Sensationail Gel looks just as shiny and good so after your last coat of gel is cured apply gel top coat and cure for 1 min.

Wipe your nails with rubbing alcohol to remove the wet layer and Voila!! Beautiful salon nails at home. 

I will keep everyone updated on how long these last but I've been very hard on them today. I was washing dishes and doing laundry and other house chores and I haven't had any tips pop off or any lifting or anything. They still look brand new.

The hardest part about this process is learning to work with the gel so it doesn't seep onto the sides of your nail or be to thin or thick in some parts. The IBD gel is very easy to work with, it self-levels but I do find it a bit runny. I did read somewhere if you place it in a cooler area then it's easier to work with but the builder gel is suppose to have a bit thicker consistency so I ordered that and I'm anxious to see how much different it is than the clear gel.

Will keep everyone updated!!

~Gwen S~


1 comment:

  1. I like your steps, I really wanted to see the steps that you applied the design, was it after you wiped the sticky layer off? Did you use regular nail polish? I never use a gel top coat. I wipe the sticky off after the second coat, then I always use my electric nail file to thin out the edges along the sides. Then I wipe with alcohol again and it becomes shiny again, then I use my regular nail polish, after they've completely dried, I use the Seche Vita UV Top Coat which seals them for up to 2wks.

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